I last left you upon our arrival in Luang Prabang Laos where we plunked ourselves down in a lovely guest house for 10 days and slowed our previously frantic pace. This allowed time for lazing around, meandering into downtown Luang Prabang on our bicycles and basically chillaxing. Luang Prabang was hot, seemingly more so than Thailand and Japan but also gritty and dusty. More dirt roads and dogs. Every family had chickens and roosters in their yard, bikes and motorbikes. Only a few cars to speak of. Laos for me had always been for me the road less travelled and it didn't disappoint, it kind of reminded me of Cambodia in 1999 and all of this was delicious to my traveller self.
When we arrived at our guest house in Luang Prabang in the extreme heat of the afternoon, we immediately found out that our rooms were not available and that we would be put up at the "hotel" next door for the night "Free of Charge" and then are 2 rooms would be available. The hotel owner was so upfront and super nice about everything that we all just went along with it. The other hotel was a backpacker hostel and they gave us two small rooms tucked away on the second floor. Both rooms were extremely basic, with dark wood floors and super clear. We had to walk by all the laundered sheets drying on the racks to access the rooms. I was expecting worse and was very happy with the result. For one night I can and have slept outside and in train stations. The kids had their own room but to their horror they had to sleep together in a double bed. Lots of fighting ensued where we had to read them the riot act and put the foot down. Their only other complaint was the hole in the ceiling of the bathroom - I said that it was a skylight 😀 as it is all in the marketing! Anyhow this little adventure for one night in a quiet backpacker hostel actually made them appreciate our guest house much more for the entire duration in Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang is known for their large night market which also includes a colourful food section. The baguette sandwich stalls were very popular with Jim and the kids. There was a row of nearly twenty stalls all selling ready made baguette and you could essentially get anything on a baguette to go. Each stall had a homemade sign indicating that the stall had the Best Baguette sandwiches etc. on this one sign were comments painted in bold colours from travelers. I spotted something familiar "C'est Bon en Tabarnak" chuckled to myself as I knew Quebeckers had eaten here.
There was this narrow alley serving all kinds of hot goodies on small grills. Crowded with people and dogs with lots of smoke and steam. Jim found it claustrophobic. I loved venturing down there and every time I would find something new. The man selling piping hot pork dumplings was a hit with the kids especially with the hot sauce. There was also several one plate "all you can eat" buffets for ~ $2 with a Beer Laos. This was extremely popular with locals and backpackers. 
My favourite dessert there was the small coconut milk pancakes, hot off the grill - so delicious.
Our absolute worst meal in Luang Prabang and on our trip to date occured in Luang Prabang around August 16 and I have been haunted ever since. You simply cannot trust a restaurant that served me the Worst Papaya salad ever. I am a huge fan of Thai papaya salad and they have a lovely variation of it in Laos. However we made a rather poor choice of a lunch restaurant in Luang Prabang. Jim wanted to try something new by the river however I suggested Joy's restaurant were we had eaten and thoroughly enjoyed the day before. I lost out, John was not hungry and stayed back at the guest house The papaya salad was the colour of the Mekong and smelled equally as foul. I tried a micro bit and immediately stopped eating deciding not to have lunch at all. The dish was so foul smelling that we asked for the dish to be removed from the table. Jim and Elizabeth's lunch dishes seemed ok at the time however they both ended coming down with tummy troubles immediately after the lunch which lasted the better part of a week. John and I totally dodged that bullet!
We visited the Royal Palace, several Wats, waterfalls, fed Elephants at a sanctuary, rode bikes around town, was successful at Geo Caching and had a magical evening out at the Royal Ballet. Other things of note for Luang Prabang: I managed to get my iPhone repaired after it bounced off the bed, I had my hair coloured ink black at a "salon" miss communication regarding colour and was reunited with John's lost iPad which was couriered from Japan...it was a joyful reunion!
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